Backing fabrics are often (but not always) non-woven interlinings. Like many other products, you will find that there are different types, weights and qualities available and of course you will also find that the cheaper products may not be as good as other higher priced products.
In embroidery, backing fabrics are used as a stabiliser - to hold the fabric securely in place so that it doesn't move during embroidery. Why? Well, that's because if the fabric moves during embroidery then the embroidery design will be out of register. That means different parts of the design like outlines and borders won't match up with the filled areas.
A good backing fabric should be very stable (non-stretch) in both vertical and horizontal directions. It should also be stable enough to hold the embroidery during wash & wear so that it does not become distorted.
Non tear or cut-away backing - When I first started in the embroidery industry (and before you ask - NO there were no dinosaurs then) it was extremely rare to find an embroiderer using anything other than good quality, non-tear, cut-away backing.
The simple reason is that a good quality non-tear backing provides the best possible support for embroidery.
Non-tear backings can be used with most fabrics but are highly recommended for normal stretch fabrics.
Tear-away backing - This type of backing has become popular sinmply because the excess backing can be removed quickly and easily from around the embroidery.
This might appear to be a cleaner / neater finish on the inside of the garment but it brings with it some problems that can make life much harder for the embroiderer and for the digitiser.
As mentioned earlier on this page, tear-away backings have a tendency to perforate around the edges of the embroidery whilst the machine is running. Once this happens, the backing can no longer hold the fabric securely in place and if the fabric begins to move around during embroidery then the different parts of the design will not be in register.
Usually this kind of problem is thrown back on the digitiser to rectify and that's a 'very big ask'. After all the digitiser is very often not there to watch and work out exactly where and why the problems are happening.
Iron-on (fusible) backing - This is best suited to stretch fabrics and/or large, complex designs that are likely to produce severe fabric push / pull. The backing itself is usually very stable and once it has been fused to the top fabric then there is very little chance of movement. bear in mind that once it has been heat pressed onto the fabric it will not be easy to remove it.
Adhesive backing - Filmoplastic is one example and is very suitable for use with high stretch fabrics and for embroideries that have to be stitches close to or even right to the edge of the fabric.
Water soluble backing - This product is used to hold the fabric during embroidery but then after embroidery has been completed the item is emersed in cold or warm water and the backing will disolve completely.
Water soluble backings are often used for embroidered lace designs and can also be used as a topping to hold down the pile when embroidering loop towelling.
Thermo destructible backing - Thermogaze is such a product and is commonly used to manufacture embroideries that can be heat pressed onto fabric/garments.
How it works: Thermogaze is a natural coloured, woven fabric that is used as a base to embroider onto. A special, heat fusible bobbin thread is used.
After the embroidery has been completed the embroidery is cut out as a square and is placed onto fabric and heat pressed.
Two things happen in the heat press:
1. The Thermogaze fabric turn a grayish colour and becomes extremely brittle
2. The bobin thread melts, sticking the top thread in place.
One the fabric has cooled down you simply brush the reverse side and the Thermogaze fabric will crumble and fall away easily.
If you are experiencing problems with designs that don't look so good then you need to go back to basics:
Let's assume that the machine is known to be good and capable of high quality work. You need to start with a best case scenario so use a stable, woven fabric and a good quality non-tear backing and make sure that they are hooped up well. That means that both the backing and the fabric must be tight in the hoop.
How does it look?
Now try stitching out the design on a knitted fabric with the same non-tear backing
Now experiment with either a thinner non tear backing or maybe even a medium weight tear away backing.
If the last change brings about problems with stitch-out quality then you know what to do to rectify it.
